Naran to Gilgit 233km
The day started out at a standstill. Soon after we left Naran we found a truck had taken out the bridge over the Kunhaar river in Bata Kundi. This put a big delay on our day but added incredible value to our adventure.
We eventually convinced locals to help us out and carry our Vespa over the broken bridge.
On the other side there was a small tributary steam that we decided to just ride across. Easier said than done. Both Bagel and I stalled in the middle of the stream and had to get off and push the rest of the way. Then we had to remove our spark plugs and dry out the cylinder to get the scoots started again.
Once across it was a short ride to breakfast were we saw a Wild ferret scampering down the street. At first I thought it was a chipmunk or a squirrel but it was definitely a ferret.
Saw my first glacier today it was a small one but came right to the roadside. The locals had hollowed out a space and were selling ice cold bottled drinks to passing cars. I hope I caught it on the GoPro as I drove by.
We went over Babusar pass today. The summit is 13,700 feet after a few minutes of being at the top I felt a little lightheaded. We had to wait for our passports to be processed before they would allow us to ride down. And what a ride down it was. The steepest hairpin turns I have ever ridden. The absence of guard rails added to the excitement. Any mistake would have been a grave error.
Roughest roads yet today makes for a very long tiring day. On the upside I remember thinking after riding a particularly difficult section that if I can ride this on a 50 year old scooter with 8" wheels I must have some skills.
Soon after we got to the super rough section Moin cracked his clutch casing and had to stop. As our mechanic Gurdu went about fixing it. The rest of us went on ahead. Soon due to different riding styles, stops to take pictures and minor scooter maintenance stops, we were spread out all over the highway. I spent most of the day relatively on my own. Only to meet up with each other at checkpoints and other logical stops. At one point I remember riding along thinking I'm alone at risk and riding a motor scooter thought Pakistan on the other side of the world. I have never been so free.
On the opposite side of the valley we hit a sand storm. riding uphill into a headwind while being sandblasted raw. By the time I got to the top going any farther was out of the question. Lucky for me that's where I found Bagel sitting in a roadside chai hut having a conversation with Professor Ahmad from the University of Islamabad. We had met Ahmad earlier in the day while we were stuck at the bridge. Ahmad and a friend are also on a motorcycle adventure up the KKH.
I joined them for tea and soon after Michael caught up and joined us. The tea house was conveniently adjacent to the viewing point for Nanga Parabat, the ninth tallest mountain on earth. Soon after that Moin caught up and warned us that the aftermath of the sandstorm would be very dangerous in the mountains. So the rest of the day was a 50km single file race with the professor in tow.
Right after the teahouse was a checkpoint where Moin took our passports as usual and did all of the talking. Because of the mounting storm we were ushered through the checkpoint to ride on while Moin did all of the paperwork. We rode on without our passports.
We raced on to Gilgit with fits and stops all of our Vespasian having issues with fuel starvation from clogged jets due to the sand storm we rode through. On one of the stops I also started taking photos of the mountains. Right away a man across the street in a military uniform started yelling and motioning for us to come across the street. That's when I notice that it was a military base across the street. Ohh this is not going to be good. As I pulled over to the man I was thinking I will just show him that the pictures on my phone are just of the mountains not the base... I mean he will understand right? I'm not a spy. As I shut the scoot off I had a panic thought "oh shit! Moin has my passport! Pakistani prison here I come!" As It turned out he just saw a white guy and wanted to meet me.
The hotel in Gilgit has a wonderful airy veranda
Plus the entire place is decorated with stuffed goats
Dinner was another spectacular feast of Pakistani cuisine at Cha Cha's chicken house. Cha Cha is uncle in Urdu.
The stairway to the dining room was kinda scary though
